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It’s ironical that the highest – situated 315 metres above sea level – coldest distillery in Scotland produces one of the most tropical tasting whiskies. This is due to Tomatin having the longest fermentation period in the world – one week. Gordon & MacPhail is one of the few bottlers they are willing to entrust with their new make spirit: the revered bottler has aged some of the oldest whiskies on the market.
This Discovery Range Tomatin 2011 was from a small batch of ex-bourbon casks, which are represented by green colour-coding in the Discovery range, and has been bottled at an easy-drinking 43%.
Nose: Ripe tropical fruits combine with green apple and tangerine. Lemon peel and roasted peanuts give way to soft vanilla.
Taste: Smooth pear and underlying citrus complements white peach. Malted biscuit notes and melon are balanced by black pepper.
Finish: Medium-bodied finish with mature oak and subtle dried herbs.
It is Tomatin’s much improved wood policy which has brought it to the notice of single malt lovers. A higher percentage of first-fill casks – ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry – has given more flesh and structure to the always top-notch spirit.
Although the first manifestation of Tomatin only ran between 1897 and 1906, its reopening under new management in 1909 saw the start of a remarkable journey which would culminate in this remote Highland outpost in between Aviemore and Inverness becoming the largest malt whisky distillery in Scotland.
Its expansion (and contraction) mirrors accurately the mood of the industry: from two stills to four in 1956, four to six in ‘58, an upping to 11 in ’61 and then in 1974 the most dramatic expansion of all, with 12 stills being installed, bringing the total to 23 and overall capacity to 10m litres per annum.
It couldn’t last. Even in 1974 the first indications of a downturn in Scotch’s fortunes were being noticed. Tomatin never ran at full capacity and in 1986 went into liquidation.
The site was saved however by two of its Japanese bulk customers, Takara Shuzo and Okura & Co [Okura’s stake was taken by Marubeni in 1998], making it the first Scotch distillery to be under Japanese control.
There has been a slow but steady recalibration ever since. The company bought blending firm J&W Hardie in 1997, adding the prestigious Antiquary blend to its portfolio. Eleven of the stills were taken out of commission in 2000 and today only 2m litres are produced from six wash and four spirit stills.
The other major change has been a shift in emphasis from bulk supply to single malt (as well as Antiquary) – again Tomatin is mirroring the market's continuing evolution. The single malt range has been widened in terms of age statements and introduced a peated variant, Cu Bocan.
46% ABV
70cl
Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Jun 20 - Jun 25
US$40
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